![]() As I approached the county line the horizon was punctuated by towering construction cranes. This was not to be another sleepy, dusty Delta day. ![]() But lately, thanks to the state's peculiar version of legalized gambling, just about everything's coming up rosy in this northwest corner of what some call Dississippi. Just as other low-ranking Southern states have said thank God for Mississippi, which makes them look better, other Mississippians have said thank God for Tunica. I was headed for Tunica County, long known as one of America's most wretched rural backwaters. 61 unrolled across the Mississippi Delta, an asphalt umbilical cord connecting New Orleans, where jazz was born, to Memphis, which claims part credit for the births of both the blues and rock-and-roll. ![]() The red sun was pasted in the sky like a wafer, and the morning mist over the cotton fields blushed pink as it melted away.
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